The Ultimate NZ Guide to Watering Your Houseplants (Without Killing Them)

Watering houseplants seems simple enough—until you start second-guessing everything. "Is it too much? Too little? Why does my Monstera look sad?" Relax, plant parent. We've got you covered. This guide will teach you how to water your leafy babies properly, avoid common mistakes, and understand the nuances of hydration for different seasons and plant placements.

TLDR: It's about FREQUENCY, not volume of water or routine timelines. Your soil should be evenly MOIST like a squeezed sponge, not soggy nor dry. It's then about letting the soil DRY OUT to the right degree for your plant then re-watering thoroughly.

Proper watering means soaking the soil deeply so that all the roots get hydrated, then letting it drain completely—never let your plant sit in stagnant water. The perfect watering schedule depends on factors like plant species, time of year, and indoor conditions.

How to tell when it's watering time: Insert a finger 3–4 cm into the soil—if it’s dry at that depth, watering might be needed. You can also gauge moisture by lifting the pot: a dry plant will feel significantly lighter. Keep in mind, the top layer of soil dries out first, while the lower portion might still hold moisture.

Soil Your Plants

Wait for the soil to dry? Yes, but it’s not one-size-fits-all. Each plant has different moisture needs, and some can tolerate more neglect than others. The key is balancing soil dryness, home environment, and seasonal shifts. Here’s a rough breakdown of watering preferences:

• Slightly dry before watering: Thin-leaved plants like peace lilies, Fittonia, calatheas, and baby tears.
• Moderately dry: Ficus varieties (like fiddle leaf figs and weeping figs) and softer philodendrons.
• Mostly dry: Pothos, variegated ficus, monstera, Schefflera, and waxy-leaved philodendrons.
• Completely dry: Cacti, succulents, and orchids.

Drainage is everything: Potted plants need a substrate that doesn’t trap excess water. Succulents and orchids, for example, require extra-fast drainage, while others need more moisture retention. The trick is figuring out the ideal drying period—this depends on your plant, its placement, and seasonal changes.

Common Organic Soil Types:

PlantHouse's Custom Soil - This custom peat-free mix is designed for us and for use in the home, not in our nursery. There's the perfect mix of bark, coco fibre, pumice, slow release fertiliser and organic material to set your plant up for a successful transition from the greenhouse into your home. This involves a mix of macro chunks and micro chunks - the larger pieces let excess moisture drain through whereas the smaller pieces retain moisture through surface tension. As a guide, you should be able to go 2 weeks without watering in summer and 4 weeks without watering in winter.

Peat Fibre -  This is often used in commercial greenhouses and it works amazingly well in that warm humid bright environment with frequent watering. The problem is the plant reaches retail stores without being replanted into proper houseplant mix suitable for home use. It has lead to certain plants like calathea gaining a reputation for being difficult, but the reality is it needs repotting. We typically do not use this mix for thi reason.

Orchid Bark - Orchids are mostly epiphytes which means they grow on top of other plants. They are used to gaining moisture through ambient humidity and occasional showers. A chunky mix of bark lets home orchids replicate these conditions, a traditional mix can be too dense for orchids so opt for a specialist mix for your floral beauty.

Cacti Mix - Cacti and succulents like to dry out between watering. The mix has many medium sized chunks for the small cacti roots and lets excess flow through readily without becoming waterlogged.

LECA - Hydroponic substrate needs a slightly different approach, with much more airflow than traditional mixes, these need to absorb moisture periodically which then gets 'sweated' out and drawn up by the roots of your plant. Its a high effort water and require liquid fertiliser but results in long periods without rewatering and relatively few pest issues.

🌱 How to Water Your Houseplants the Right Way (No More Guesswork!)

Forget the tiny sips. Plants aren’t dainty tea drinkers—they're booze hags that want a deep, thorough soak, followed by a hangover period of drying out (depending on their species). The key is watering thoroughly, then monitoring the substrate to know when to water again.

Top Watering: The Classic Pour

Top watering is what most people do—watering the soil from above. Done correctly, it ensures water reaches the entire root system.

✅ How to top water correctly:

• Use room-temperature water (cold water can shock the roots).

• Use a watering can that spreads the water gently across the surface without disturbing the soil
  

• Water slowly and evenly across the surface until you see excess water drain from the bottom.

• Allow excess water to drain away—no standing water in saucers, or you’re setting up a root rot disaster.

• Check the soil before rewatering: stick your finger in up to the first knuckle or use a moisture meter.

🚨 Common mistakes:

• Only watering or focusing on the surface - this just encourages shallow roots and watering too frequently (there's a gradient from dry top to wet bottom in every pot of soil).

• Letting water collect in decorative pots without drainage holes and disregarding substrate drainage when planting directly into decorative pots.

• Overwatering out of love (yes, too much love can drown your plant).

🍑 Bottom Watering: Butt Chugging for Plants

Yes, you read that right. Bottom watering—aka butt chugging—is a fantastic way to ensure even moisture without drenching the leaves or compacting the soil. The plant and the soil will pull up what it needs without overly saturating itself. Don't worry about the dry top, your plant will grow deep healthy roots.

✅ How to bottom water correctly:

• Fill a tray, sink or bathtub with about 5cm of water.

• Place your plants (pot and all) in the water and let it sit for 30 minutes.

• Check if the top of the soil feels moist. If not, give it a few more minutes.

• Drain thoroughly before putting the plant back in its decorative spot.

🚨 Common mistakes:

• Leaving plants sitting in water for too long (they don’t need a spa day).

• Only ever bottom-watering (some plants prefer occasional top watering to prevent salt buildup in soil).
  

💦 Self-Watering Pots: A Hands-Off Approach to Hydration

Self-watering planters can be a lifesaver for forgetful waterers, but they’re not a one-size-fits-all solution.

✅ How They Work: These pots have a reservoir at the bottom and an insert that keeps the plant and soil up above it but also a method that wicks water up into the soil as needed, keeping moisture levels steady. The top will look dry but the deep roots of the soil will have access to moisture always
✅ Best For: Thirsty plants like Peace Lilies, Fittonias, and Ferns that prefer consistently damp soil.
🚨 Not Great For: Cacti, succulents, or plants that like their soil to dry out between waterings—these can easily get overwatered.

💡 Pro Tip: Use a well-aerated soil mix to prevent soggy conditions and algae buildup in the reservoir.

🌦 Seasonal Watering: Adjusting for the Weather

Spring & Summer (Growth Mode) 🌞

Plants are actively growing, so they drink more. Expect to water more frequently, especially in warm rooms.

Autumn & Winter (Chill Mode) ❄️

Growth slows down, so water needs decrease. Overwatering in winter is a fast track to root rot. Water less often and ensure pots dry out properly before rewatering.

Rule of thumb: If your plant’s growth has slowed, let the soil dry out more before watering again.

🏡 How Placement Affects Watering Needs

Your plant’s location plays a huge role in how often it needs a drink.

☀️ Bright, sunny spots – Soil dries out faster, especially near windows. Check these plants more often.

🌑 Low-light corners – Less light means less growth and less water uptake. Water sparingly.

🔥 Near heaters or AC vents – Airflow sucks moisture from soil and leaves. Monitor these plants closely.

💦 Humid rooms (bathrooms, kitchens) – Plants in higher humidity need less frequent watering.

💧 Misting: Myth or Must-Do?

Misting is fun, but it won’t replace proper watering. It can temporarily increase humidity around plants but doesn’t hydrate the roots where its needed most. If you’re misting, make sure it’s for a humidity-loving plant (like ferns or calatheas) and not something that hates wet leaves (hello, fiddle leaf fig). Misting can be useful for stuck leaves and newly emerging soft leaves but in general, proper watering in the soil is enough, the mister is just an occasional tool in your belt.

🌊 Why Can Plants Grow in Water But Not in Waterlogged Soil?

You’ve seen those happy plants thriving in glass jars of water, but the same plant dies in soggy soil. Why? Oxygen.

🚰 Water-grown plants: Roots adapt to absorbing oxygen from the water.
🌱 Soil-grown plants: Roots need air pockets in the soil. Overwatering drowns roots by eliminates oxygen because naturally occuring bacteria in the soil uses what is available much more readily than the roots, leading to root rot.

Moral of the story? Wet soil ≠ thriving roots. Drainage matters!

🚫 The Pebble Myth: Why You Shouldn’t Add a Drainage Layer at the bottom of your pot

A common houseplant hack you might have heard is to add pebbles, rocks, or bits of broken terracotta to the bottom of a pot to improve drainage. Unfortunately, this does the exact opposite.

Why it doesn’t work:

• Water doesn’t magically drain through different materials. Instead, it pools at the interface between soil and pebbles, creating a perched water table.

• This trapped moisture leads to soggy roots, which can cause root rot—the number one killer of houseplants.

• Proper soil mix is what truly determines drainage, not a layer of rocks.

Bottom line: Skip the pebbles and focus on using well-draining soil instead.

🏆 Nursery Pots vs. Decorative Pots: Which Is Better?

Why Nursery Pots Win for Plant Health

Nursery pots may not be the prettiest, but they’re designed for function over form. Here’s why they’re often the best option for your plant:

🌿 Better drainage: They have plenty of drainage holes, preventing root rot.
🌿 Easier to check moisture levels: Squeeze the pot slightly—if it feels firm, the soil is dry; if it's soft, there's still moisture.
🌿 Less risk of overwatering: Water drains freely instead of pooling at the bottom.
🌿 Simpler repotting: When your plant outgrows its home, a flexible nursery pot makes it much easier to slide the root ball out without damage.

Decorative Pots: Beautiful but Tricky

That gorgeous ceramic pot you bought? If it doesn’t have a drainage hole, it can become a death trap for your plant.

🚨 Why decorative pots can cause issues:

• Many have no drainage holes, meaning water gets trapped and leads to root rot. Only use nursery pots or self-watering inserts inside pots without drainage

• Glazed ceramic holds moisture longer, which can be a problem for plants that like to dry out. Terracotta or unglazed clay actually draws moisture away from the soil.

• They’re often heavy and harder to work with when repotting. Save your plant, save your beautiful pot and save and your back!

Best solution? HIDE nursery pots inside decorative pots! This way, you get the best of both worlds: good drainage and a stylish display.

📌 Final Watering Wisdom

• Deep watering > frequent shallow watering.

• Know your plant’s preferred dryness level. Cacti? Dry desert vibes before watering again. Peace lily? Moist but not swampy or dry.

• Use the right pot. Drainage holes are a must unless you're a watering pro.

• Observe your plant’s signals. Drooping? Yellow leaves? It’s talking to you—learn its language!

Still unsure about your plant’s hydration needs? Swing by PlantHouse in Mangawhai or Grey Lynn, and we’ll set you up with the perfect routine for your green babies. Happy watering! 💚